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3 r And Its Wonderful Valley Twenty-seven Hundred and Seventy-five Miles from Source to Sea By Julius Chambers Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society Member of the National Geographic Society With 80 Illustrations and Maps G. P. Putnams Sons New York and London ttbe Iknfcfcer ocfee press 1910 JUIJUS CUAMllf-. RS TO MY WIFE MARGARET CONTENTS PAGE FOREWORD ix CHAlTFR L THE ERA OF FABLE 3 IT. DAWN OF THE ERA OF CREDIBILITY . . . 12 III. THE FRENCH EXPLORATIONS ... 17 1. Jacques Cartier 18 2. Groseilliers and Radisson ... 21 3. Allouez Finds a Name .... 43 4. Wonderful La Salle .... 47 5. Joliet and Marquette .... 50 i. La Halle Tries Again .... 56 7. Louis Heniiepin GC 8. La Salles Last Visit . ... 68 J. Ht. Cosines Voyage .... 71 10. Iboivillc Banishes All Mysteries . . 74 11. Le Seuer and Bine Mud 70 12. Philology of Mississippi ... 70 TV. JONATHAN - AHVBK TO WILLIAM MORRISON . . 81 V. TIIK LOUISIANA PURCHASE i . 85 VI, LKWJS AND CLARK 93 v CHAITIER I AI VII. ZHBULON M. PIKIO TO OIACOMO . Itai ntAMi . S VIII. Tnio tfcnoouUAUT KXIKIHTION .... 0ii IX. TIIM JEAN N. NICOLLKT MXIMODITION . . 11 X. ELK LAKJO TO SOUTIJ-WIOST PASS . . . . i l l. AI While iCjiHh Mission . . . i j t 1, AI Spin I Islaiul i tS 3. Tho Mississippi Ill 4. KSIHWI Ill 5. A New Lake MS . Nirolleis 3r fc, k 15-1 7. Down ho Young Mississippi ., 155 8, P k ini lji, JasH, and Vinw k I agosInsli . 157 0. Pokogaina o SI. Anlhony . . . 10. KoH Miu IIing to Sainl Ixniis ., 175 11. By Kloamboal to Now Orleans, . 1S ia. To ho Ha and lo Now York . . i 7 XI. TIIM ITASCA STATIC PAUK uoa XJL DKLTA OK TIIM MISSISSIPPI . yos 1, The LOVWH UIO 2. The Jlli w . . . . . . U1S XIII. JOININO THM OttttAT KlVRK TO TIIM iltWAT LAKIOS 15-1 XIV.THM AGIO oir WATBU a u CIJAPTKR PAGE XV. THE MISSISSIPPI IN WAR ..... 237 1. Struggles with the Indians . . . 237 2. British Final Defeat at New Orleans . 242 3. The Civil War 233 Forts Henry and Donelson . . 255 Shiloli 258 New Orleans . . . . 262 VicJcsburg 260 XVI. THE MISSISSIPPI BUBBLE 277 XVI J. GREAT CITIES oir THE VALLEY .... 285 Saint Paul-Minneapolis .... 286 Saint Louis 200 Memphis 204 New Orleans 207 To THE RIVKU L Envoi ....... 304 INDKX 305 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE TUB MISSISSIPPI RIVER IMMEDIATELY BELOW ITASCA LAKE Frontispiece THE ITASCA WATERSHED ....... 8 Surveyed and drawn by J. V. Brower, 1892-1903. A PAGE OF THE EADISSON MANUSCRIPT .... 24 Photographed at Bodleian Library, Oxford, England, under direction of Hon. W. E. Lee. Courtesy of J. V. Brower. FATHER UENNEPINS DISCOVERY OP ST. ANTHONY FALL . 68 Painted by Douglas Volk in the State Capitol. Copyright, 1905, by Douglas Volk. FALL ........ 80 Copyright, 1908, by T. W. Ingersoll. RECENT VIEW AT SOUTHEASTERN EXTREMITY OP ITASCA, SHOWING THE POINT ACROSS THE LAKE AT WHICH SCIIOOLCRAFT REACHED lT 7 IN 1832 .... 110 JTASOA LAKH, LOOKING SOUTH PROM BLUFF AT NORTHERN UNO .......... 116 NIOOLLKTS CREEK, BEYOND ITASCA. THE CRADLED HER CULKS ......... 120 Courtesy of J. V. Brower. Taifl MOUTH OF NICOLLETS CREEK, WHERE IT ENTERS ITAHCA ......... 124. Taken since the building of a dam at the outlet of the lake. THE OUTLET OF NICOLLBTS MIDDLE LAKE - . . 126 x Illustrations lA iR THE ITASCA LAKE KEUION, AS SURVEYED BY HOPIGWELL CLARKE, OCTOBER, 188G ...... IliS THE SOURCES OP THE MISSISSIPPI ..... KJO First Official Survey Map 1875. By Edwin S. Hull. THE CITY OF DULUTU IN 1872 . . . . . i 2 SAINT PAUL, LOOKING SOUTHWEST..... K52 From a photograph taken in 1872. A TYPICAL CHIPPEWA ....... IM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER THIRTY MILKS IJIOLOW ITAH U LAKE ......... H2 Minnesota Historical Society Collection. A SAMPLE OF CEDAR FOREST, IN THE ITASCA COUNTRY . M2 Minnesota Historical Society Collection. THE OUTLET OF ITASCA LAKE, IO M ..... lM Minnesota Historical Society Collection. THE MOUTH OF UOUTWELL CRHKIC, KST SHORE OF ITASOA LAKE .......... Ml Minnesota Historical Society Collection. THE EAST ARM OF FTASUA LAKE ..... ll Looking north from the Southern End...